There are no cars in Lamu Old Town. Donkeys carry goods through narrow stone lanes, dhows with patched white sails glide across the channel, and the call to prayer drifts over carved wooden doors that have stood for centuries. Lamu is one of the most atmospheric places on the East African coast, and it moves at its own slow pace. This Lamu travel guide covers what to see, where to stay, how to get there and the best time to visit.
Lamu at a glance
- Where: the Lamu Archipelago on Kenya’s north coast, close to the border with Somalia.
- Main islands: Lamu, Manda and Pate, with smaller islands such as Kiwayu further north.
- Status: Lamu Old Town was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001 as the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa.
- Known for: Swahili architecture, dhow sailing, quiet beaches, seafood, festivals and a car-free way of life.
- Getting there: a flight of about an hour and a half from Nairobi to Manda Island, then a short boat ride.
Why visit Lamu?
Lamu has been a trading port for more than 700 years. Merchants from Arabia, Persia, India and Europe all passed through, and their influence shows in the town’s architecture, food and language. Unlike many historic towns, Lamu is still lived in. Families live in the old coral-stone houses, fishermen mend nets on the waterfront and children play in the lanes. Visitors come to slow down, walk, sail and eat well, not to tick off sights.
Things to do in Lamu
Walk through Lamu Old Town
The best way to see Lamu is on foot. The narrow lanes are lined with coral-stone houses, carved wooden doors and hidden courtyards. A local guide will show you the details you might miss, such as the patterns on the doors, the old wells and the town’s mosques. Keep to the side of the lane when donkeys pass.
Visit Lamu Fort and Lamu Museum
Lamu Fort was built in the early 19th century and sits on the main square. It now houses exhibitions on the town’s history. On the waterfront, the Lamu Museum covers Swahili culture, boat building and the region’s traditions, including the carved ceremonial horns known as siwa.
Sail on a dhow
A dhow trip is a must in Lamu. Sail at sunset along the channel between Lamu and Manda, head out for a day of snorkelling and fishing, or stop on a sandbank for a seafood lunch cooked on board. Captains also offer longer trips to Pate Island and the mangrove channels.
Relax in Shela
Shela village is a short walk or boat ride from Lamu town. It has a long, empty beach backed by sand dunes, stylish guesthouses and a relaxed atmosphere. It is the best base for travellers who want a beach holiday with Lamu Old Town nearby.
Explore Manda Island and the Takwa Ruins
Manda Island is home to the airport and a handful of boutique resorts. On the island, the Takwa Ruins are the remains of a Swahili town abandoned in the 17th century, reached by boat through the mangroves at high tide.
Watch the Donkey Sanctuary at work
Donkeys are central to life on Lamu, and the Donkey Sanctuary in the town provides free care for the island’s working animals. It is a short and interesting stop on a walking tour.
Festivals in Lamu
- Lamu Cultural Festival: usually held in November, with dhow races, donkey races, Swahili poetry, music and crafts.
- Maulidi: a religious festival marking the birth of the Prophet Muhammad, centred on the Riyadha Mosque, with processions and music. Its dates follow the Islamic calendar.
Lodging fills up quickly around both festivals, so book early if you want to visit at these times.
Where to stay in Lamu
Lamu has a wide range of accommodation, from restored Swahili houses to barefoot luxury resorts. These are some of the properties we book:
- Peponi Hotel, Shela: a family-run hotel on the waterfront at Shela, known for its terrace, restaurant and relaxed atmosphere.
- Kijani Hotel, Shela: a small boutique hotel with Swahili-style rooms set around gardens and pools.
- The Majlis Resort, Manda Island: a stylish resort on a quiet beach facing Shela, with an art collection and water sports.
- Manda Bay Resort, Manda Island: a barefoot resort on the northern tip of the island, with fishing, sailing and secluded beaches.
Best time to visit Lamu
- December to March: hot and dry, with calm seas. This is the most popular time to visit.
- July to October: cooler and dry, with a breeze. A good time for walking and sailing.
- April to June: the long rains bring heavy showers, and some hotels close for part of this period.
- November: short rains, often around the Cultural Festival.
How to get to Lamu
Scheduled flights run from Nairobi, Mombasa and Malindi to Lamu Airport on Manda Island. From the airport, a boat takes you to Lamu town, Shela or your resort in a few minutes. Most hotels arrange the transfer for you.
We recommend flying rather than driving. At the time of writing, the UK Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office advises against all travel to Lamu County except Lamu Island and Manda Island, and recommends flying into Lamu Airport rather than travelling by road. Check the latest FCDO travel advice for Kenya or your own government’s advice before you travel.
Tips for visiting Lamu
- Dress modestly in town. Lamu is a conservative Muslim community. Cover your shoulders and knees in the old town, and save swimwear for the beach and your hotel.
- Ask before taking photos of people. Most people are happy to help, but always ask first.
- Check the dates of Ramadan. During Ramadan, eating and drinking in public during the day is frowned upon, and some restaurants close until sunset.
- Carry cash. Many small shops and boat captains prefer cash or M-Pesa.
- Pack light. You will walk and use boats, so a soft bag is easier than a large suitcase.
- Slow down. Lamu rewards those who take their time. Plan at least three nights.
Combining Lamu with other trips
Lamu works well at the end of a safari. Fly from the Masai Mara, Samburu or Nairobi to Lamu and spend a few days unwinding. You can also combine Lamu with Watamu or Malindi further south. Read our Watamu and Diani beach guide for more ideas on the Kenyan coast, or see our Masai Mara safari guide for the bush part of the trip.
Plan your Lamu holiday with B Hudson Tours
We arrange Lamu holidays with flights, boat transfers, hotels and excursions such as dhow trips and guided walks. Browse our Lamu packages and our Kenyan coastal escapes, or contact us for a tailor-made trip.
Lamu travel FAQs
Is Lamu safe to visit?
Lamu Island and Manda Island are popular with visitors, and the UK FCDO excludes both islands from its advice against travel to Lamu County. Fly in rather than drive, and check current travel advice before you go.
How many days do I need in Lamu?
Three to five nights is ideal. That gives you time for the old town, a dhow trip, a day in Shela and some proper rest.
Are there beaches on Lamu?
Yes. Shela Beach stretches for kilometres along the south-east of the island. Manda Island also has quiet beaches.
How do I get around Lamu?
On foot, by donkey or by boat. Lamu Old Town has no cars, and boats connect the town, Shela and Manda Island.
Can I combine Lamu with a safari?
Yes. Flights connect Lamu with Nairobi, so it is easy to add a few days on the coast after a safari.
Ready to plan your Lamu holiday? Contact B Hudson Tours and we will put together a trip around you.
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